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| = The Bowline Knot =
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| The '''bowline''' (pronounced "BOH-lin") creates a fixed loop that won't slip under load and unties easily even after heavy stress. Used by sailors for 500+ years, it's the most reliable knot for creating secure attachment points.
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| '''Strength:''' Retains ~60% of rope strength | '''Difficulty:''' Beginner | '''Jam resistance:''' Excellent
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| == How to Tie ==
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| === Method: Up, Around, Down ===
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| # '''Create entry point:''' Make small overhand loop
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| # '''Thread up:''' Working end goes UP through loop from below
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| # '''Circle the target:''' Around the standing line (the load-bearing part)
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| # '''Return down:''' Back DOWN through original loop, same path
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| # '''Secure:''' Tighten and leave 6+ inches of tail
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| === Memory Aid ===
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| "Backdoor entry, lateral movement around the target, exit through same door, cover your tracks."
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| == Field Applications ==
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| * '''Rigging:''' Hoist cameras, lights, or gear to elevation
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| * '''Anchor points:''' Secure attachment that won't fail under load
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| * '''Recovery:''' Vehicle towing, equipment hauling
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| * '''Climbing:''' Anchor loops (though figure-8 follow-through preferred for harnesses)
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| * '''Marine:''' Dock lines, fender attachment, rigging blocks
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| == Why It Works ==
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| The bowline's geometry creates a '''mechanical lock''':
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| * Working end is trapped between standing line and loop
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| * Load tightens the knot rather than loosening it
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| * Can be untied by "breaking" the back of the knot even under tension
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| == Common Mistakes ==
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| * '''Short tail:''' Always leave 6+ inches minimum
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| * '''Wrong direction:''' Working end must pass between standing line and original loop when going around
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| * '''Poor dressing:''' Tighten all parts evenly for optimal strength
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| == Variants ==
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| * '''Double bowline:''' Extra security for critical loads
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| * '''Bowline on a bight:''' Creates two loops instead of one
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| * '''Water bowline:''' Better grip when rope is wet/icy
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| == Material Compatibility ==
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| {| class="wikitable"
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| ! Material !! Performance !! Notes
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| | Nylon/climbing rope || Excellent || Optimal grip and strength
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| | Natural fiber || Excellent || Traditional use case
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| | Paracord || Good || Slippery when new, breaks in well
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| | Polypropylene || Fair || Very slippery, consider backup knot
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| | Wire rope || Poor || Use proper cable fittings instead
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| |}
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| == Testing Your Bowline ==
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| A correct bowline has:
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| * Working end and standing line on '''same side''' of the loop
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| * Working end '''trapped''' between standing line and loop
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| * '''No slippage''' under moderate load
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| * '''Easy untying''' even after loading
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| Pronunciation tip: It's "BOH-lin," not "bow-LINE." The latter marks you as inexperienced.
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| == When Not to Use ==
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| * '''Cyclic loading:''' Repeated stress can loosen any knot
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| * '''Life safety with dynamic rope:''' Use figure-8 follow-through
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| * '''Very slippery synthetic rope:''' Add backup stopper knot
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| * '''Shock loading expected:''' Consider energy-absorbing knots
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| == The Bottom Line ==
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| Master this knot. It's proven technology that solves real problems without complexity or failure modes. Works in any weather, with any natural fiber or decent synthetic rope, and has literally kept people alive for centuries.
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| No batteries required.
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| {{Navbox Knowledge}}
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| {{Navbox Skills}}
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/tmp/bowline-updated.wiki